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Anonymous

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Posted on Monday, March 29, 2004 - 4:59 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post

Hi,

I am looking for the possibility to convert anaglyph red/blue or red/green pictures/videos to interlaced stereo ones.

Is it possible ? Are there some softwares to do that ? Thanks :)
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Anonymous

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Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 4:55 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post

Mmmmh ... my topic seem to be not very popular :(

Anyone an idea, please ?
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Puppet Kite Kid

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Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 5:24 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post

It's sort of a can of worms :-)
You can make a grayscale pair of images, interlaced included, but any retinal rivalry that was in the original anaglyph will also show up in the grayscale pair.
You can also make a "color" pair of images, but the right image is cyan and the left one is red. This is not as much of a problem as you might think, though. The trick is to convert the bright red image to something a bit "easier on the eyes". You still want to retain as much of a red tint as possible, though, or you will lose the "full color" nature of the images, i.e., RGB (red, green and blue). You can make the bright red easier on the eyes by converting it to a "reddish brown" or sort of a "rusty brown". The brightness of the red causes some retinal rivalry, and this is what you need to tone down, somehow. As long as you do that, the brain will "fuse" all the colors back together. It works much better than you might think.
Now, the real problem... how do you do this? Well, you can make grayscale images with StereoPhoto Maker freeware:
http://www3.zero.ad.jp/esuto/stphmkr/index_e.htm
You can also use VirtualDub freeware for movies, but I don't have the steps published. You can, however, figure it out by studying the existing methods of converting parallel pairs to anaglyph... sort of ;-) Basically, you use the "Interlaced RGB" filter and cancel the colors, then start tweaking them to either get a grayscale pair or a color pair:
http://www.puppetkites.net/virtualdub3d.htm
Also, I think 3DCombine can make grayscale pairs, but it's not freeware. There is a trial, though, and I think it's pretty cheap :-)

P. K. Kid
Non-commercial stereoscopic 3D video:
(All G-Rated) http://www.PuppetKites.net
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Anonymous

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Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 8:40 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post

Thank you a lot for the explanation ... right, it seems that it isn't that easy :(
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Puppet Kite Kid

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Posted on Friday, April 02, 2004 - 1:03 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post

Don't get me wrong... it can be done, and I'll show you the steps with VirtualDub, but the quality of the results are only going to be as good as the quality of the original anaglyph, since there is no way to "correct" the colors once they have been made into an anaglyph. Most of the anaglyphs you will see are not properly "shade corrected". If they are, they can actually make great pairs, but the typical ones that are not properly shade corrected to begin with will still have the same degree of retinal rivalry as the the anaglyph.
Also, any compression artifacts, which are common in MPEG anaglyphs and some JPEG's, can't be removed.
In VirtualDub, open the anaglyph (BMP) or anaglyph movie. If it's an MPEG 2 or a VOB, you can use VirtualDubMPEG2:
http://fcchandler.home.comcast.net/
Add the "InterlacedRGB" filter. (Download:
http://www.geocities.com/gc_timsara/vdub.html )
Step 1) Under "Even Lines" and "Cancel", check "R". Under "Odd Lines" and "Cancel", check "G" and "B".
You now have an interlaced 3D image (I'll will also tell you how to deinterlace that to pairs at the end of this message), and you can now look at the preview with shutterglasses, but the left image will probably appear a bit too dark... so:
Step 2) Add the "Hue/Saturation/Intensity" filter. (Download: http://neuron2.net/hue.html )
If you are lucky enough to have a "shade corrected" anaglyph, check only the "Red" under "Apply To:", then move the "Hue" slider slightly to the right... try somewhere around 27. You can also slightly desaturate only the red and raise the intensity a bit.
How does it look? Bad? It's probably not a properly shade corrected anaglyph, then... so you will have to try some variations of the above, but you won't be able to get rid of the retinal rivalry :-(
If you want a grayscale conversion, use two separate applications of the "Hue/Saturation/Intensity" filter. With the first one, totally desaturate only the "Red", then raise the "Intensity" as far as it will go. Now, with a second separate application of the same filter, totally desaturate _everything but_ the "Red" and "Yellow". Now raise the "Intensity" in that filter until the left and right eyes look the same as far as brightness is concerned. Again, if you are lucky enough to have a properly shade corrected anaglyph as the source, the results will look great, but some of the original colors will be altered... balanced, but altered... and if there is retinal rivalry in the anaglyph, it will also show up in the conversion :-)
Now, if you want pairs, "Deinterlace" the interlaced 3D image and "Unfold fields side-by-side". Now, double the height with the "Resize" filter. You then have a crossed pair (a "JPS" ;-). If you want a parallel pair, add the "Field Swap" filter just before the "Deinterlace" filter.

Have fun :-)
PKK
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Puppet Kite Kid

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Posted on Friday, April 02, 2004 - 1:46 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post

Whoops! I forgot to mention the ever-so-important VirtualDub rule of resizing ;-) If you convert to "full size" pairs, always add the "Resize" filter first (you can apply it at any time and "move it up" to the top). If you don't do that, and you double the height, you'll probably get "jaggies" :-)
Also, I prefer the "Lanczos3" resize method, but that's just a personal choice :-)

PKK

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